Vardane

Vardane Expeditions Lazimpat Road 14 Kathmandu 44600, Nepal

+977 1 400 2800climb@vardane.com

A Himalayan snow ridge glowing against a rose dusk sky

Himalaya28°33′ N · 84°33′ E

Northeast Face

The eighth highest mountain on earth, and the 8,000 m peak we recommend first: remote, wild and climbed in the quiet autumn season.

From $39,000

Reserve a place
Summit
8,163 m
Duration
42 days
Season
September – October
Grade
5 · 8,000 m
Team
Up to 6 climbers
Guiding
1:1 Sherpa to climber

Manaslu means mountain of the spirit. It is where most of our Everest climbers first learn how their body behaves above eight thousand metres.

We reach base camp from Samagaon after a flight to the village of Sama, and climb the Northeast Face over broad glaciers and a few steep steps of ice. Four camps, oxygen from Camp III, and a true summit reached along a short and airy ridge.

The autumn season is short and settled. Fewer teams, warmer days and long views to Tibet.

Itinerary

Day by day

Grade 5 of 5, 8,000 m Grade 5 · 8,000 m

8,163 mElevation by day
Days 1–31,400 mDays 37–42
  1. Kit check, permits and a briefing with the doctor.

  2. A helicopter to the village of Samagaon and two days of short walks.

  3. Our camp on a moraine above the village.

  4. Camp I, Camp II and a night at Camp III.

  5. Down to the village, back to base camp, and a wait for calm weather.

  6. Camp IV on a broad plateau, and away at midnight.

  7. A narrow ridge to the true top, then down before the afternoon wind.

  8. A helicopter from Sama and a last night in Kathmandu.

Cramponed boots astride a deep crevasse
The Milky Way over snow peaks and a lit tent
A climber on a snowy summit in low sun

Included

  • Personal Sherpa partner on the climb
  • Six bottles of oxygen a climber
  • Helicopter in and out
  • Doctor and medical tent at base camp
  • Private tent and heated dining tent

Not included

  • International flights to Kathmandu
  • Nepal visa (on arrival)
  • Personal climbing kit (see the kit list)
  • Rescue and medical insurance
  • Tips for the Sherpa team

Before you come

  • A 6,000 m peak, ideally Ama Dablam or Island Peak
  • Confident on fixed ropes and ladders
  • Full medical check

Departures

Dates for Manaslu

Ask for a private date
  • 30 Aug – 10 Oct 2027

    42 days

    From $39,000

    Open

The snowy south face of Aconcagua above a dry high valley

Next expedition · Andes · 6,961 m

Aconcagua

Climbers' words

01 / 04

“I turned round at the Balcony on my first attempt and summited with Vardane two years later. Both decisions were made with me, not for me.”
Helena V.Everest, 2025
“Pemba didn't just get me up Ama Dablam. He taught me how to climb at altitude, and I've used every word of it since.”
James O.Ama Dablam, 2024
“The quietest, best-run base camp on the mountain. You notice the difference on day one and you're grateful for it on day fifty.”
Sofia M.Everest, 2024
“Three weeks on Denali with a sled behind me. Hardest thing I have ever done, and I'd do it again tomorrow with the same guides.”
Daniel K.Denali, 2025

Questions

Before you
reserve

  • Tell us what you have climbed and what you want from the mountains, and one of our guides will call you. We would rather suggest a smaller peak first than see you on the wrong expedition.

  • Fitter than you think. Every expedition page lists what we expect before you come, and once you book we send a training plan written for you by our coach, with check-ins every month.

  • Turning round is part of climbing. If weather or health stops your summit, you can join the same expedition within two years at a reduced price, and your guide will tell you honestly what to work on.

  • Our lead guides hold the IFMGA qualification. Our Sherpa team are the same people every season, paid all year round, insured in full and trained in rescue and first aid at our expense.

  • We keep it public: every summit, every turnaround and every evacuation is in our annual report. We cap team sizes, carry more oxygen than we need and have a doctor at base camp on every 8,000 m expedition.

  • Each expedition page shows the price. A deposit of 20% holds your place; the rest is due 90 days before departure. Prices include everything on the mountain; flights, insurance and personal kit are extra.

  • Yes. Any expedition can be run as a private trip for one climber or a group, on the dates you choose. Ask on the reservation form and we will plan it with you.

  • Yes: insurance that covers mountaineering to the height of your expedition, including helicopter rescue. We will send you a list of insurers our climbers use.

  • Our kit list covers every item, what it needs to do and what we provide. Your guide checks all of it with you before we leave the city.

  • Of course. We can put you in touch with past climbers from the expedition you're considering.

Reservations open for 2027

The mountain is waiting

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