Vardane

Vardane Expeditions Lazimpat Road 14 Kathmandu 44600, Nepal

+977 1 400 2800climb@vardane.com

A small chorten beneath a towering Himalayan face

Himalaya27°51′ N · 86°51′ E

Southwest Ridge

The most beautiful mountain in the Khumbu, climbed on rock, ice and a ridge of snow as thin as a blade.

From $14,900

Reserve a place
Summit
6,812 m
Duration
28 days
Season
October – November
Grade
4 · Extreme altitude
Team
Up to 8 climbers
Guiding
1:2 Sherpa to climber

Ama Dablam is the climb our guides choose on their days off. Steep rock to Camp I, a knife-edge ridge to Camp II, and a summit face that looks impossible from the valley.

The Southwest Ridge is a true alpine route at Himalayan height. You climb granite slabs and towers on fixed lines, cross the Grey Tower and the Mushroom Ridge, and finish up a steep snow face below the hanging glacier that gives the mountain its name, the Mother's Necklace.

We keep two nights at Camp I and use Camp II only for the summit push. It is the best preparation there is for an 8,000 m peak, and a climb worth making for its own sake.

Itinerary

Day by day

Grade 4 of 5, Extreme altitude Grade 4 · Extreme altitude

6,812 mElevation by day
Days 1–21,400 mDays 24–28
  1. Kit check and permits.

  2. Through Namche and Tengboche, with an acclimatisation climb above Dingboche.

  3. A meadow under the mountain, with views straight up the ridge.

  4. Granite slabs and a first night on the ridge.

  5. Recover at base camp and wait for a calm forecast.

  6. The Yellow Tower and a small camp perched on the ridge.

  7. The Mushroom Ridge and the summit snowfield before dawn, and the whole Khumbu at your feet.

  8. Back through Namche to Lukla and Kathmandu.

A white stupa with a gilded spire in front of snow peaks
Two roped climbers on a rocky snow ridge in cloud
A steaming cup in a dark wooden hut, a mountain in the window

Included

  • Sherpa support on the climb, one for every two climbers
  • Two bottles of oxygen for the summit, if you want it
  • All fixed lines and camps on the mountain
  • Lodges on the trek, private tents at base camp
  • Satellite phone and daily forecasts

Not included

  • International flights to Kathmandu
  • Nepal visa (on arrival)
  • Personal climbing kit (see the kit list)
  • Rescue and medical insurance
  • Tips for the Sherpa team

Before you come

  • A 6,000 m peak, or a season of alpine climbing
  • Able to climb rock to grade III in boots
  • Comfortable abseiling on fixed lines

Departures

Dates for Ama Dablam

Ask for a private date
  • 8 Oct – 4 Nov 2027

    28 days

    From $14,900

    Open

  • 29 Oct – 25 Nov 2027

    28 days

    From $14,900

    3 left

A Himalayan snow ridge glowing against a rose dusk sky

Next expedition · Himalaya · 8,163 m

Manaslu

Climbers' words

01 / 04

“I turned round at the Balcony on my first attempt and summited with Vardane two years later. Both decisions were made with me, not for me.”
Helena V.Everest, 2025
“Pemba didn't just get me up Ama Dablam. He taught me how to climb at altitude, and I've used every word of it since.”
James O.Ama Dablam, 2024
“The quietest, best-run base camp on the mountain. You notice the difference on day one and you're grateful for it on day fifty.”
Sofia M.Everest, 2024
“Three weeks on Denali with a sled behind me. Hardest thing I have ever done, and I'd do it again tomorrow with the same guides.”
Daniel K.Denali, 2025

Questions

Before you
reserve

  • Tell us what you have climbed and what you want from the mountains, and one of our guides will call you. We would rather suggest a smaller peak first than see you on the wrong expedition.

  • Fitter than you think. Every expedition page lists what we expect before you come, and once you book we send a training plan written for you by our coach, with check-ins every month.

  • Turning round is part of climbing. If weather or health stops your summit, you can join the same expedition within two years at a reduced price, and your guide will tell you honestly what to work on.

  • Our lead guides hold the IFMGA qualification. Our Sherpa team are the same people every season, paid all year round, insured in full and trained in rescue and first aid at our expense.

  • We keep it public: every summit, every turnaround and every evacuation is in our annual report. We cap team sizes, carry more oxygen than we need and have a doctor at base camp on every 8,000 m expedition.

  • Each expedition page shows the price. A deposit of 20% holds your place; the rest is due 90 days before departure. Prices include everything on the mountain; flights, insurance and personal kit are extra.

  • Yes. Any expedition can be run as a private trip for one climber or a group, on the dates you choose. Ask on the reservation form and we will plan it with you.

  • Yes: insurance that covers mountaineering to the height of your expedition, including helicopter rescue. We will send you a list of insurers our climbers use.

  • Our kit list covers every item, what it needs to do and what we provide. Your guide checks all of it with you before we leave the city.

  • Of course. We can put you in touch with past climbers from the expedition you're considering.

Reservations open for 2027

The mountain is waiting

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