Vardane

Vardane Expeditions Lazimpat Road 14 Kathmandu 44600, Nepal

+977 1 400 2800climb@vardane.com

A long glacier winding toward a giant snow peak, seen from the air

Alaska63°04′ N · 151°00′ W

West Buttress

The coldest big mountain on earth, climbed without porters: you pull a sled and carry your own camp, roped to your guides the whole way.

From $12,800

Reserve a place
Summit
6,190 m
Duration
23 days
Season
May – June
Grade
4 · Extreme altitude
Team
Up to 6 climbers
Guiding
1:2 guide to climber

Denali is the mountain that makes expedition climbers. No porters, no lodges, no shortcuts: three weeks on a glacier with a sled behind you and the whole Alaska Range around you.

A ski plane lands us on the Kahiltna Glacier. From there the West Buttress climbs past Ski Hill and Windy Corner to a high camp at 5,240 m, and up the summit ridge to the top of North America.

We climb with two guides for every four climbers, so a team can always split to bring someone down.

Itinerary

Day by day

Grade 4 of 5, Extreme altitude Grade 4 · Extreme altitude

6,190 mElevation by day
Days 1–2110 mDay 23
  1. Kit check, sled packing and a briefing with the park rangers.

  2. A ski plane to base camp on the Kahiltna.

  3. Sled hauls to Ski Hill and Motorcycle Hill, and the camp at 14,000 feet.

  4. Up the headwall to high camp on the West Buttress.

  5. The Autobahn, Denali Pass and the summit ridge.

  6. Spare days for storms. Denali always uses some.

  7. Back down the glacier and a ski plane to Talkeetna.

Two climbers crossing a vast glacier under rocky peaks
A lit tent under a sky full of stars
Gloved hands caked in snow and frost

Included

  • Two guides for every four climbers
  • All group kit, sleds and fuel
  • Ski plane flights
  • All meals on the glacier
  • National Park climbing fee

Not included

  • Flights to Anchorage
  • Personal kit, including expedition boots
  • Rescue insurance

Before you come

  • Experience on glaciers with crampons and ice axe
  • Able to haul 30 kg between a pack and a sled
  • A cold-weather course, or our Denali skills week

Departures

Dates for Denali

Ask for a private date
  • 8 May – 30 May 2027

    23 days

    From $12,800

    Full

  • 29 May – 20 Jun 2027

    23 days

    From $12,800

    Open

Dark rock peaks rising from an endless ice sheet

Next expedition · Antarctica · 4,892 m

Vinson

Climbers' words

01 / 04

“I turned round at the Balcony on my first attempt and summited with Vardane two years later. Both decisions were made with me, not for me.”
Helena V.Everest, 2025
“Pemba didn't just get me up Ama Dablam. He taught me how to climb at altitude, and I've used every word of it since.”
James O.Ama Dablam, 2024
“The quietest, best-run base camp on the mountain. You notice the difference on day one and you're grateful for it on day fifty.”
Sofia M.Everest, 2024
“Three weeks on Denali with a sled behind me. Hardest thing I have ever done, and I'd do it again tomorrow with the same guides.”
Daniel K.Denali, 2025

Questions

Before you
reserve

  • Tell us what you have climbed and what you want from the mountains, and one of our guides will call you. We would rather suggest a smaller peak first than see you on the wrong expedition.

  • Fitter than you think. Every expedition page lists what we expect before you come, and once you book we send a training plan written for you by our coach, with check-ins every month.

  • Turning round is part of climbing. If weather or health stops your summit, you can join the same expedition within two years at a reduced price, and your guide will tell you honestly what to work on.

  • Our lead guides hold the IFMGA qualification. Our Sherpa team are the same people every season, paid all year round, insured in full and trained in rescue and first aid at our expense.

  • We keep it public: every summit, every turnaround and every evacuation is in our annual report. We cap team sizes, carry more oxygen than we need and have a doctor at base camp on every 8,000 m expedition.

  • Each expedition page shows the price. A deposit of 20% holds your place; the rest is due 90 days before departure. Prices include everything on the mountain; flights, insurance and personal kit are extra.

  • Yes. Any expedition can be run as a private trip for one climber or a group, on the dates you choose. Ask on the reservation form and we will plan it with you.

  • Yes: insurance that covers mountaineering to the height of your expedition, including helicopter rescue. We will send you a list of insurers our climbers use.

  • Our kit list covers every item, what it needs to do and what we provide. Your guide checks all of it with you before we leave the city.

  • Of course. We can put you in touch with past climbers from the expedition you're considering.

Reservations open for 2027

The mountain is waiting

rayso-logo

Premium Astro Templates

Get this TemplateGet this Template