Vardane

Vardane Expeditions Lazimpat Road 14 Kathmandu 44600, Nepal

+977 1 400 2800climb@vardane.com

The snowy south face of Aconcagua above a dry high valley

Andes32°39′ S · 70°00′ W

Polish Glacier Traverse

The highest mountain outside Asia, climbed by its quieter eastern valley and traversed over the summit and down the other side.

From $8,900

Reserve a place
Summit
6,961 m
Duration
21 days
Season
December – February
Grade
3 · High altitude
Team
Up to 8 climbers
Guiding
1:3 guide to climber

Aconcagua is a mountain of wind and space. We take the long way in, by the Vacas Valley, so you are ready for the cold and the height before the last climb begins.

The traverse sees a fraction of the people on the normal route. Mules carry the heavy loads to base camp at Plaza Argentina, and from there we carry our own camps to the upper mountain before crossing the summit and descending the Horcones side.

It is the best high-altitude school we know: long days, real cold and a summit that rewards patience.

Itinerary

Day by day

Grade 3 of 5, High altitude Grade 3 · High altitude

6,961 mElevation by day
Days 1–2750 mDays 19–21
  1. Permits, kit check and a last good dinner.

  2. Three days on foot with mules, through a valley of red rock.

  3. Base camp, rest and a carry to Camp I.

  4. Camps I, II and III, carrying high and sleeping low.

  5. The Gran Acarreo, the Canaleta and the top of the Americas.

  6. Down to Plaza de Mulas on the far side of the mountain.

  7. Out by the Horcones Valley and back to Mendoza.

Andean peaks breaking through the clouds, seen from the air
A climber bracing against a gust of spindrift
A pot steaming on a camp stove on a rock ledge at dusk

Included

  • Two guides for every six climbers
  • Mules to and from base camp
  • All meals on the mountain
  • Park permits
  • Satellite phone

Not included

  • Flights to Mendoza
  • Personal kit and sleeping bag
  • Rescue insurance
  • Tips for the mule drivers

Before you come

  • A 5,000 m trek, or Kilimanjaro
  • Able to carry 18 kg for six hours
  • Good basic crampon skills

Departures

Dates for Aconcagua

Ask for a private date
  • 27 Dec 2026 – 16 Jan 2027

    21 days

    From $8,900

    1 left

  • 17 Jan – 6 Feb 2027

    21 days

    From $8,900

    Open

  • 27 Dec 2027 – 16 Jan 2028

    21 days

    From $8,900

    Open

A long glacier winding toward a giant snow peak, seen from the air

Next expedition · Alaska · 6,190 m

Denali

Climbers' words

01 / 04

“I turned round at the Balcony on my first attempt and summited with Vardane two years later. Both decisions were made with me, not for me.”
Helena V.Everest, 2025
“Pemba didn't just get me up Ama Dablam. He taught me how to climb at altitude, and I've used every word of it since.”
James O.Ama Dablam, 2024
“The quietest, best-run base camp on the mountain. You notice the difference on day one and you're grateful for it on day fifty.”
Sofia M.Everest, 2024
“Three weeks on Denali with a sled behind me. Hardest thing I have ever done, and I'd do it again tomorrow with the same guides.”
Daniel K.Denali, 2025

Questions

Before you
reserve

  • Tell us what you have climbed and what you want from the mountains, and one of our guides will call you. We would rather suggest a smaller peak first than see you on the wrong expedition.

  • Fitter than you think. Every expedition page lists what we expect before you come, and once you book we send a training plan written for you by our coach, with check-ins every month.

  • Turning round is part of climbing. If weather or health stops your summit, you can join the same expedition within two years at a reduced price, and your guide will tell you honestly what to work on.

  • Our lead guides hold the IFMGA qualification. Our Sherpa team are the same people every season, paid all year round, insured in full and trained in rescue and first aid at our expense.

  • We keep it public: every summit, every turnaround and every evacuation is in our annual report. We cap team sizes, carry more oxygen than we need and have a doctor at base camp on every 8,000 m expedition.

  • Each expedition page shows the price. A deposit of 20% holds your place; the rest is due 90 days before departure. Prices include everything on the mountain; flights, insurance and personal kit are extra.

  • Yes. Any expedition can be run as a private trip for one climber or a group, on the dates you choose. Ask on the reservation form and we will plan it with you.

  • Yes: insurance that covers mountaineering to the height of your expedition, including helicopter rescue. We will send you a list of insurers our climbers use.

  • Our kit list covers every item, what it needs to do and what we provide. Your guide checks all of it with you before we leave the city.

  • Of course. We can put you in touch with past climbers from the expedition you're considering.

Reservations open for 2027

The mountain is waiting

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