Vardane

Vardane Expeditions Lazimpat Road 14 Kathmandu 44600, Nepal

+977 1 400 2800climb@vardane.com

Safety18 April 20266 min read

Why we carry more oxygen than we need

Eight bottles for each climber, and spares at every camp. The arithmetic of a safe summit day.

A climber with a glowing headlamp on a snow slope below a peak

Words by Dr. Tomas Reiner

A summit day on Everest from the South Col uses three bottles of oxygen at a flow of three to four litres a minute. Most companies plan for that. We plan for the day going wrong: a slow climber, a stuck queue, a long wait at the Hillary Step.

Every climber has eight bottles on the mountain, and every Sherpa partner carries a spare on summit day. It costs more. It also means nobody has to choose between turning the flow down and turning round.

Reservations open for 2027

The mountain is waiting

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